DISCLAIMER: The modifications described in the following text are for educational purposes only. In no way do I recommend that you apply these modifications to your own motorcycle. If you do choose to go ahead and modify your motorcycle based on the information in this document you will accept all responsibility for your own actions. The author(s) of this document, and host(s) providing it for you, accept no responsibility whatsoever. If you are unqualified to make any of the changes described herein but are bent on doing the modification, seek out a knowledgeable friend or professional mechanic for assistance.
Oil and filter changing.
NOTE: This is just a guide; it does not replace a service manual, general mechanical knowledge, specific motorcycle repair experience and good old common sense. With the proper tools, some general experience and this guide most users will be able to successfully check valve clearances and if required replace shims to adjust the valves to service specifications. If you have any problems then stop and ask questions on the forum, take pictures of your point of confusion and get your answers before you start.
Basic hand tools, all metric
3/8 Drive socket set with 12mm socket for sump plug
Allen key 5mm
There has been a number of questions about changing the TTR's oil and filter so I took some pics of the oil change I have just done.
I will explain how I do it but you may well decide to do things your own way.
Warm the engine first as the warm circulated oil will drain more easily and carry any debris with it.
Remove your sump guard if fitted and make sure that you wash off any dirt from the sump and crankcases.
I prepare by putting a sheet of cardboard covered with newspaper under the TTR as I always seem to spill oil
I cut a side out of an empty oil can and it's ideal for catching the old oil.
Next up is to remove the sump plug. They can be very hard to remove so make sure you use a well-fitting socket (preferably) or spanner. Mine needed a 12mm socket and a huge effort to undo it!
Leave the oil to drain. After a while I rock the TTR sideways a couple of times and more oil always drains out. If this is the first time changing the oil on your TTR, it will give you an idea as to how well the previous owner looked after it by the volume and colour/cleanliness of the oil.
Next up is to remove the oil filter cover to access and change the oil filter. If you loosen the bottom of the three cover screws before the top two it will allow the oil in the filter to drain into the sump - it's a "drain" screw. That way you don't get oil all over the place as the cover is taken off.
Remove the cover and there is your oil filter. New O ring sets are available here.
Have a good look at the old filter to see what's been caught in it. A small amount of shiny metallic particles is OK. On this occasion I didn't re-use the mesh filter as I didn't know its history and just replaced it with a new Filtrex one.
Fit the new filter (it can only go in one way) and replace the cover having first made sure the two small O rings are in place. Then torque the 3 bolts up to 10Nm.
Replace the sump plug after annealing the washer if made of copper or replacing it if made of aluminium.
I use a small jug and funnel to refill the oil. I start with a litre of oil - I use Silkolene Super 4 10w-40 semi synthetic.
I turn the TTR engine over with the choke off to get the oil circulating before pulling out the choke and starting up.
If there are no obvious leaks then, after warming the engine up, I put some clean newspaper underneath to check for any slow leaks.
If all OK, then refit your sump guard if you have one and then top up the oil to the top mark on the sight glass.